Culzean commands a fine cliff top position overlooking the entrance to the
Firth of Clyde a few miles south of Ayr. Its name derives from 'Cuilean',
meaning place of caves, for the shore hereabouts is honeycombed with natural
caverns carved by the action of the sea. Robert Adam, who rebuilt the castle for
the 10th Earl of Cassillis in the later eighteenth century, had to arrange for
those directly beneath his new building to be filled in, lest they collapse
under the weight of the structure above. Further down the coast, near Ballantrae,
are the caves supposed to have been inhabited by the notorious Bean family, who
robbed unwary travellers and ate their bodies. By this means they not only
provided themselves with nourishment, but also removed trace of their crimes.
Like Dunrobin, Culzean consists of an older castle incorporated within more
recent additions. The first building on the site was a medieval tower, formed
into an L shape by placing the stairway in a tower of its own at right angles to
the main block. A barmkin extended along the rocky plateau to the north. This
castle was replaced in the seventeenth century by a fortified complex of
buildings of no particular architectural merit, but which served well enough to
house in reasonable comfort and security the family and household of successive
generations of Kennedys. A wing built by the 9th Earl to extend his castle
westwards towards the sea was knocked down when Adam began his improvements a
few years later.
Culzean has been heralded as a masterpiece of Scottish Gothic Revival
architecture. It is indeed a most attractive example of that genre and is
undoubtably more successful than the other examples of revivalist building
featured in this chapter. There is sufficient symmetry about the castle to avoid
the impression, given by Dunrobin, of a kit built house put together by someone
who had lost the instructions. It also displays none of the simple, almost naive
uniformity of Inverary. Military features machiolation, bartizans, battlements
and the like are presented with restraint and not permitted to dominate the form
of the building. There is no attempt to clutter the skyline with a romantic
excess of turret and cone. If the house had to be rebuilt in a form resembling a
genuine castle, then the design probably could not have been better executed.
Within this romantic shell, the interior of Culzean is a Georgian delight. The
only feature that jars is the obsession with weapons, something already noted at
Inverary. An armoury may be permissible, but it it really necessary to place
cannon at the foot of Adam's glorious staircase, the very epitome of harmony and
cultured development?
As was his custom, Robert Adam concerned himself with every detail of the
building for which he was responsible, designing the furniture, the decoration,
and even, in one or two cases, the carpets. The craftsmanship is of the highest
possible quality. Two rooms of contrasting style may be singled out. One is the
Old Eating Room, a comfortable sitting room set in the base of the original
tower house which exudes an atmosphere of relaxed security. It contains a number
of pieces of Adam furniture and probably incorporates some medieval masonry. The
circular Saloon on the first floor of the drum tower is an altogether different
proposition. It is one of the most delightful rooms of any house in the country.
Part of its effect is achieved by the juxtaposition of the wild coastal scenery
outside the windows with the clean elegance within. The delicate ceiling has
recently been restored according to Adam's design and on the floor the National
Trust for Scotland, whose superb work at Culzean is a credit to both themselves
and the nation, have laid a locally made carpet, a close copy of Adam's
original. The crimson carpeted oval staircase, supported on Corinthian and Ionic
columns (the usual order is cleverly reversed to emphasize the height
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